Sophon is one of the 20 Best New Restaurants of 2024. The restaurant boasts this year’s Best Beverage Program, mixing cocktails that feature fish sauce, sawtooth coriander, and a global array of spirits.
At Sophon, a Cambodian restaurant in Seattle’s Phinney Ridge neighborhood, every dish channels Khmer identity. Some, like mouthwatering braised pork belly braised in soy-coconut milk, are what chef-owner Karuna Long calls “family authentic,” while others—like karaage-inspired local mushrooms—pull inspiration from the Pacific Northwest. Sophon is an ode to Long’s mother, who escaped Cambodian genocide under the Khmer Rouge. Arising from such tragic circumstances is an abiding spirit of creativity, melding Khmai flavors and cooking methods in clever, compelling ways.
This approach is clear in the restaurant’s layered, ingenious cocktails. Ingredients like floral makrut lime leaves, sawtooth coriander simple syrup (derived from the herb common in Southeast Asian cooking), and Kampot peppercorns (a warm and sweet varietal with a kick, grown and shipped from the mineral-rich soil of the Kampot region) pay direct homage to Cambodian cuisine. Bar manager Dakota Etley also creates house-made components that nod to deeper cultural connections. A Brie-washed American rye hints to both Cambodia’s French colonization as well as the United States occupation during the Vietnam War. A kabocha squash tincture references the country’s agricultural past—a crop first ushered in by Portuguese traders before gaining prominence in Japan.
In cocktails like the Mekong, a spin on a piña colada, fish sauce provides an intriguing earthy pungence. Named after Southeast Asia’s longest river, this frozen wonder draws inspiration from Cambodia’s unofficial national dish of amok: fish steamed in coconut cream and fragrant kroeung spices. “The bar menu is primarily Khmer-focused,” Etley says, “but it’s also a little touch of the Pacific Northwest as well.” Here’s how the Mekong’s star ingredients come into play.
Coconut cream is a must in amok. Long recalls seeing Mae Ploy in his mother’s kitchen throughout his childhood. The Thai brand offers its trademark velvety texture to the Mekong’s final form, and the can doubles as a charming drinking vessel.
To create a balance of sweetness and acidity, Etley blends in creamy Carabao mangoes from Cambodia’s neighboring isles, the Philippines, along with a tart Thai green mango syrup that’s made in-house. Seattle’s Mekong Asian Market supplies both fruits.
A little goes a long way! This bold staple provides curious depth and appears throughout Sophon’s drinks menu. In addition to being a key component in the peanut orgeat syrup, the bar keeps a squeeze bottle of it handy and drops a spoonful into the cocktail just before blitzing.
This riff on an almond syrup common in tiki drinks swaps in roasted peanuts and features salt, cane sugar, and fish sauce. Fragrant kroeung flavors of turmeric, galangal, and lemongrass balance the sharpness of the punchy fermented fish.
A sprinkle of this seaweed nods to Seattle’s coastal character, providing the drink a touch of brine. “My mom taught me to forage and appreciate Pacific Northwest flora and fauna,” says Etley. While Sophon pays tribute to Long’s mother, Etley honors his own matriarch here with the inclusion of kelp. Fresh mint and an edible orchid round things out with added aroma and pops of color.